Photoshop and Imaging Basics for Artists 2025 - Class/Homework Thread

Here you will find all of the information (appropriate links (including Dropbox folder links for homework), notes, reminders, etc.) for Anthony’s Photoshop 101 (Photoshop Basics for Artists) Any questions, comments, or concerns should be sent to aaawpsclass@gmail.com.

NOTE: Please respect the work, rights, and privacy of participating artists. You may view the uploaded homework efforts from the class within the Dropbox folder, but you may not download or manipulate their work in any way. Anya and I will be downloading uploaded homework or classwork images when needed/appropriate, but we will never share anyone’s images outside of the class without express permission from the author. All files in the Dropbox folders will be deleted at the end of the course. In addition, please know that classes will not be recorded to respect each participant’s learning experience.

If there are files required for the week’s homework, then they will be available in a folder called “WeekX_Resources” in the appropriate week’s folder. You will need to download the files in this folder to complete the week’s homework. However, please be sure not to remove or add anything to this folder.

WEEK ONE:

Select fundamental concepts about digital images and related Photoshop image management. The resources folder for this week will contain one large example image file for personal homework use if you do not have a large file of your own. This will be addressed in class.

DROPBOX FOLDER LINK: Dropbox

Today we discuss several fundamental aspects of digital imaging. We covered the pixel, the dot, ppi, dpi, resolution, image size, image quality (compression), file size, megapixel, megabyte, and file formats (psd, tiff, jpeg, png, gif, raw, cr2.)

Some definitions to be discussed:

In computer graphics and digital photography, a raster graphic represents a two-dimensional picture as a rectangular matrix or grid of (likely) square pixels viewable via a computer display, paper, or other display medium. A raster is technically characterized by the width and height of the image in pixels and by the number of bits per pixel. Raster images are stored in image files.

When viewed at an intended size, the pixels blend together to form smooth shapes and gradients, but when zoomed in, you can see the blocky structure of individual pixels. Each pixel’s color is described numerically, most often using the RGB (Red, Green, Blue) model, where different intensities of red, green, and blue combine to produce the full range of colors.

(The precision of these values depends on the image’s bit depth, which refers to how many bits are used for each channel. For example, an 8-bit per channel image means that red, green, and blue each can have 256 possible values (0–255). Since a pixel has three channels, this works out to 24 bits per pixel (8 × 3), which allows for over 16 million possible colors. Higher bit depth per channel means finer gradations of tone and smoother transitions, but it also increases the number of bits per pixel—and therefore the file size. In other words: bit depth describes per-channel precision, while bits per pixel describe the total storage cost of a pixel. ) More on this later!

Pixel Values: As shown in this bitonal image, each pixel is assigned a tonal value, in this example 0 for black and 1 for white.

Vector graphics are computer images created using a sequence of commands or mathematical statements that place lines and shapes in a two-dimensional or three-dimensional space. In vector graphics, a graphic artist’s work, or file, is created and saved as a sequence of vector statements.

Here’s a number of common file formats:

Quick format guide for artists:

  • PSD: Working master, supports layers/masks.

  • TIFF: Archival/print (lossless).

  • JPEG: Delivery (small, lossy).

  • PNG: Lossless, supports transparency (good for graphics, not archiving photos).

  • RAW/CR2: Camera sensor data, process before editing.

ADDITIONS: Smartphone outputs:

Smartphone users may notice two new image outputs: .HEIC and .HEIF. Like JPEGs, they are a form of lossy compression, so you may notice some quality degradation at higher compression levels. HEIF (High-Efficiency Image File Format) is a container format for storing images and image sequences. HEIC (High-Efficiency Image Coding) is the Apple-adopted variant of HEIF, which uses the HEVC (H.265) codec for compression.

HEIF/HEIC files are created by the camera apps of modern iPhone, Android, and even some professional cameras. Many devices will automatically convert them to JPEG on export/share, but not all do. If you encounter these files and run into compatibility issues in Photoshop, web uploaders, or printers, convert them to JPEG (or TIFF/PNG if you need lossless workflow).

Here’s a useful infographic that communicates the basic idea of encoding and compression:

Encoding vs. Compression

Image Encoding

Image encoding is the process of converting an image into a digital format that can be stored, managed, and transmitted. It defines how the image data (e.g., pixel information, color values) is represented in a digital file. Encoding ensures that the image can be interpreted correctly by different software and hardware. Think of it as the blueprint or structure for organizing the image’s data.

Image Compression:

Image compression is a specific type of encoding that focuses on reducing the file size of an image. This reduction is achieved by removing redundant or less important information from the image data, or by using more efficient ways to represent the data. The goal of compression is to minimize storage space and transmission bandwidth while maintaining acceptable visual quality.

  1. Raw pixel data → just the binary grid.

  2. Run-Length Encoding → repeated values expressed as counts.

  3. Further Encoding → nesting the RLE into more compact form.

This is indeed an encoding technique that achieves compression—but the mechanism is not compression in the abstract; it’s the encoding scheme (RLE) that makes compression possible. Remember:

  • Encoding = method

  • Compression = purpose

Here is a walkthrough of the two basic types of compression (loseless and lossy):

Lossless compression

  • The idea: Finds and replaces patterns of identical data to make the image file smaller without removing any information.
  • The visual: Imagine a black-and-white icon with a long line of white pixels. Instead of listing “white, white, white, white, white,” lossless compression can write “5 whites,” saving space.
  • The effect: The image is perfectly identical to the original, but the file size is moderately reduced.

Graphic representation

Original Image (e.g., solid red square)
Data: R, R, R, R, R, R, R, R, R, R
File Size: Large

Lossless Compression
Encoded Data: 10(R)
File Size: Smaller

Decompressed Image
Result: R, R, R, R, R, R, R, R, R, R
Visual Quality: Identical to original

Lossy compression

  • The idea: Removes some of the data that the human eye is least likely to notice. For example, it can average the color of subtly different pixels in a small area.
  • The visual: A photo with millions of colors might have some pixels with extremely similar shades of blue. Lossy compression treats all these shades as a single, uniform color.
  • The effect: The image can be significantly smaller, but some quality is permanently lost and cannot be restored.

Graphic representation

Original Image (e.g., detailed photo of a sky)
Data: Blue1, Blue2, Blue3, Blue4, Blue5...
File Size: Large

Lossy Compression
Encoded Data: 5(Average Blue)
File Size: Much Smaller

Decompressed Image
Result: Average Blue, Average Blue, Average Blue...
Visual Quality: Degraded, but how noticeable depnds on level ofcompression. 

MP (Megapixels)
A pixel is the smallest addressable element of a digital picture (however, there are bits and sub-pixels we will mention briefly here.) A megapixel is 1 million pixels. A pixel is not necessarily a square, though for ease of use most photo imaging software suites will render them as such; it is more easily referenced to as a measurement of area.

The number of distinct colors that can be represented by a pixel depends on the number of bits per pixel (bpp). A 1 bpp image uses 1 bit for each pixel, so each pixel can be either on or off. Each additional bit doubles the number of colors available, so a 2 bpp image can have 4 colors, and a 3 bpp image can have 8 colors:

  • 1 bpp = 2 colors (black/white-on/off-binary)
  • 2 bpp = 4 colors
  • 3 bpp = 8 colors
  • 4 bpp = 16 colors
  • 8 bpp = 256 colors
  • 16 bpp = 65,536 colors (“Highcolor” )
  • 24 bpp = 16,777,216 colors (“Truecolor”)

Note: In Photoshop and many imaging apps, you’ll also see “16-bit/channel” or “32-bit/channel” modes. This refers to per-channel depth (e.g., 16-bit/channel RGB = 48 bits per pixel total), which allows for far more tonal precision than the simple 1 bpp → 24 bpp ladder.

But how can something like 3BPP yield 8 colors? Like this:

Color Code RGB
Black O 000
Blue B 001
Green G 010
Cyan C 011
Red R 100
Magenta M 101
Yellow Y 110
White 1 111
  • Resolution
    This is the size and number of pixels in height and width across a screen or digital image. For example, an image with a resolution of 1024 x 768 would have 786,432 pixels or 0.8 megapixels (rounded up).
  • PPI (Pixels Per Inch)
    Pixels per inch is the density of pixels over a 1-inch area. You can determine the PPI of a device by taking the resolution and dividing it by the physical width and height of the device. ~300 PPI at the final print size is a common industry guideline for high-quality prints viewed up close. It isn’t a hard ceiling of human perception—larger prints viewed from farther away often look fine at lower PPI. Displays generally use subpixels of RGB color to generate actual pixels.

You can change the image size in a number of ways. Images can be resized or resampled. A good number of people tend to use the terms resizing and resampling as if they mean the same thing, but they don’t. There’s a VERY important difference about the two. The difference between resizing and resampling has to do with whether or not you are changing the number of pixels in the image, or as Photoshop calls it, changing the pixel dimensions of the image. If you’re keeping the number of pixels in the image the same and simply changing the size at which the image will print, or in Photoshop jargon, changing the document size of the image, that’s known as resizing. If, on the other hand, you are physically changing the number of pixels in the image, that’s called resampling. In Photoshop’s Image Size dialog: if Resample is unchecked, you are only resizing (document size changes, pixel count stays the same). If Resample is checked, you are resampling (pixels are added or removed).

  • DPI (Dots Per Inch)
    In terms of physical printed images, dots per inch is the density of individual ink dots that a printer is able to generate. In comparative terms to PPI, you can’t really compare the two usefully in many contexts. DPI is for printed photos, and PPI is for digital displays. In terms of conversion regarding resolution, a printer can treat pixels as dots, and in such case, a higher DPI setting would result in higher quality but also in a smaller picture. Although a printer may say “Can Print up to 2400 DPI,” that doesn’t mean that you’ll actually ever print anything with that high of a density. Remember: PPI is about image pixels; DPI is about printer dots. Printers often use several dots to reproduce one image pixel.

The measures “dots per inch” (dpi) and "pixels per inch” (PPI) are sometimes used interchangeably but have distinct meanings, especially for printer devices, where dpi is a measure of the printer’s density of dot (e.g., ink droplet) placement. For example, a high-quality photographic image may be printed with 600 ppi on a 1200 dpi inkjet printer. Even higher dpi numbers, such as the 4800 dpi quoted by printer manufacturers since 2002, do not mean much in terms of what is achievable.

Interestingly enough, there is no standard dot size or shape, so a higher DPI does not always equate to a higher-quality print. One manufacturer’s dots might look as good at 1200 DPI as another manufacturer’s dots do at 700 DPI. VERY generally speaking, books and magazines often use 150 DPI for photographic reproduction, and newspapers often use 85 DPI. If available DPI is a concern, ask the printshop or consult the printer specifications to find the appropriate DPI for your project.

We also discussed two common ppi settings relative to our focus: 72ppi and 300ppi.

In general, 300ppi at the original size is considered the minimum to reproduce the photograph well at the size of the original.”— A passage from the Federal Agencies Digital Guidelines Initiative’s Technical Guidelines for Digitizing Cultural Heritage Materials.

Keep in mind how many of these concepts are tied together.

Image size via Rows, Columns, and BPP

The size of an image depends upon three things.

  • Number of rows
  • Number of columns
  • Number of bits per pixel

The formula for calculating the size is given below.

Size of an image = rows * cols * bpp

It means that if you have a grayscale image with 1024 rows and it has 1024 columns. And since it is a grayscale image, it has 256 different shades of gray, or it has 8 bits per pixel. Then, putting these values in the formula, we get

Size of an image = rows * cols * bpp

= 1024 * 1024 * 8

= 8388608 bits.

Converted to our formats discussed here:

Converting it into bytes = 8388608 / 8 = 1048576 bytes.

Converting into kilo bytes = 1048576 / 1024 = 1024kb.

Converting into Mega bytes = 1024 / 1024 = 1 Mb.

Note: This is the uncompressed raster size. The actual file size on disk will almost always differ depending on the file format and compression. For example, the same image may be ~1 MB uncompressed, much smaller as a JPEG (lossy compression), or larger as a layered PSD (because layers and metadata add overhead).

  • File Size: This is the amount of “space” that the image file takes up on a memory card or other storage media. It is often measured in megabytes (MB) (although many times kilobytes (KB).) The actual file size depends on a number of factors like image size, resolution, bit depth, and level of compression.

HOMEWORK: Due in Dropbox by Oct. 1st. If you are not well versed in using Dropbox, you may choose to submit your homework via email at: aaawpsclass@gmail.com.

Scenario (please read carefully!!!): A popular gallery contacts you for a “high-res jpeg” of one of your artworks for use in an upcoming feature in a magazine. In addition, they would like to add the image to their website. Their IT person is pretty busy at the moment and asked if you could make a second image ready for website upload. They request “a smaller version with a height ranging anywhere from 700 to 1000px.”

Please put the two files you would send to the gallery in this week’s Dropbox folder or email them to aaawpsclass@gmail.com. Each “correct” file submitted in time will be worth 1 point. Also be sure to use the following filename format for your submitted files:

Filename Format: First Name-Last Name_Title_size_Medium_LARGE/SMALL or PPI

for example: Anthony-Waichulis_Ideation_24x24inches_Oil_LARGE

DROPBOX LINK: Dropbox

Here you will find all of the information (appropriate links (including Dropbox folder links for homework), notes, reminders, etc.) for Photoshop 101 (Photoshop Basics for Artists) Week Two.

HOMEWORK RESULTS FROM WEEK 1 (total 2 points):

EG: 2
GK: 2
HB: 2
JL: 2
KT: 2
KB: 2
MS: 2

NOTE: Please respect the work, rights, and privacy of participating artists. You may view the uploaded homework efforts from the class within the Dropbox folder, but you may not download or manipulate their work in any way. Anya and I will be downloading uploaded homework or classwork images when needed/appropriate, but we will never share anyone’s images outside of the class without express permission from the author. All files in the Dropbox folders will be deleted at the end of the course. In addition, please know that classes will not be recorded to respect each participant’s learning experience.

If there are files required for the week’s homework, then they will be available in a folder called “WeekX_Resources” in the appropriate week’s folder. You will need to download to files in this folder to complete the week’s homework. However, please be sure not to remove or add anything to this folder.

Again, as to file naming: Moving forward, images should have the following format (where fields are appropriate):

Name_Title_Size-in-inches (height first)_Medium (if applicable)_Price (if applicable)_SMALL/MED/LARGE-or-PPI

Today we will review the homework and some info from the last class, cover a relatively new file format WebP, file naming, goals and controls (e.g., Save As/Export), the Helmholtz–Kohlrausch effect, Color Modes (RGB, CMYK, and Grayscale,) Image Resampling, and Color Bit Depth (8, 16, and 24 bit.)

Each color on top has approximately the same luminance level and yet they do not appear equally bright or dark. The yellow (second from the left) appears to be much darker than the magenta (right-most). However, when the top image is converted to grayscale, we have the image on the bottom–a single shade of gray.

Some definitions for today:

  • Image Size Resample
    This is an option in the image sizing window that, when checked, allows the changing of the actual number of pixels in the image. Resizing without resampling keeps the pixel count fixed (you’re just changing how pixels map to inches/cm). Resampling adds or deletes pixels.

  • Color Mode
    Color modes or image modes are the basis for the representation of a pixel’s color value. These modes determine how an image will be represented on screen or in print. For instance, use CMYK color mode for images in a full-color print brochure, and use RGB color mode for images in web or e-mail to reduce file size while maintaining color integrity.

Different color modes:

1. RGB mode ((Red-Green-Blue) This is a universal mode that your desktop and camera use. RGB stands for Red, Green, and Blue, so it manages colors via configurations/combinations of red, green, and blue. This mode has the largest gamut of the modes we discussed.
2. CMYK mode ((Cyan-Magenta-Yellow-Black) The next most common mode. This mode manages color in a way that is conducive to common printing processes. CMYK covers fewer colors because subtractive inks cannot reproduce the full range of additive RGB light.
Fun Fact: The K in CMYK is known as the Key, because it’s the key plate that prints all the detail in a printed image. In printing, Cyan, Magenta, and Yellow plates are properly aligned with the Key plate.
3. Grayscale mode This is the most basic mode, consisting of a single channel that maps values to grays, from black to white.

WHEN CHANGING MODES:

You can change an image from its original mode (source mode) to a different mode (target mode) by going to IMAGE>MODE. Keep in mind that when you choose a different color mode for an image, you permanently change the color values in the image. For example, when you convert an RGB image to CMYK mode, RGB color values outside the CMYK gamut are adjusted to fall within the gamut. As a result, some image data may be lost and can’t be recovered if you convert the image from CMYK back to RGB.

TIP: Before converting images, it’s best to do the following:

• Do as much editing as possible in the original image mode.
• Save a backup copy before converting. Be sure to save a copy of your image that includes all layers so that you can edit the original version of the image after the conversion.
• Flatten the file before converting it, as the interaction of colors between layer blending modes changes when the mode changes. Not always mandatory, but flattening avoids unpredictable blending shifts between modes. (We will get to this next week!)

  • Color Bit Depth
    Bit depth quantifies how many unique colors are available in an image’s color palette in terms of the number of 0’s and 1’s, or “bits,” which are used to specify each color. This does not mean that the image necessarily uses all of these colors but that it can instead specify colors with that level of precision. For a grayscale image, the bit depth quantifies how many unique values are available. Images with higher bit depths can encode more shades or colors since there are more combinations of 0’s and 1’s available.

Every color pixel in a digital image is created through some combination of the three primary colors: red, green, and blue. Each primary color is often referred to as a “color channel” and can have any range of intensity values specified by its bit depth. The bit depth for each primary color is termed the “bits per channel.” The “bits per pixel” (bpp) refers to the sum of the bits in all three color channels and represents the total colors available at each pixel. Confusion arises frequently with color images because it may be unclear whether a posted number refers to the bits per pixel or bits per channel. Using “bpp” as a suffix helps distinguish these two terms.

Most color images from digital cameras have 8 bits per channel, meaning each primary color channel (red, green, and blue) can represent 2^8, or 256, different intensity values. When all three channels are combined at each pixel, the total possible colors are (2^8)³ = 16,777,216—often referred to as “true color.” This is why an 8-bit-per-channel RGB image is also described as 24 bits per pixel (8 bits × 3 channels).

  • If X refers to bits per pixel, the number of possible values is 2^X.
  • If X refers to bits per channel (for RGB), the number of possible values is (2^X)³.

TIP: The available bit depth settings depend on the file type. Standard JPEG and TIFF files can only use 8-bits and 16-bits per channel, respectively.

HOMEWORK: Due in Dropbox by Wednesday, Oct. 9th

Homework: Locate a “high-res” color version of a favorite masterwork online and save it to your desktop. Using that file, generate two grayscale versions—one should be an “unweighted” desaturation and the other, a curated, weighted version that you feel best compensates for the loss of hue and chroma (saturation) contributions. Upload both to the homework folder as “high quality” jpegs in the ballpark of 200ppi@5x7". This is worth 4 points!!!

Bonus Scenario: You have been invited to participate in an upcoming book that explores how artists might reinterpret the value structure of their own color paintings, drawings, or photographs if they were limited to grayscale. The publishers request two images of a single work, one with a simple unweighted desaturation and one with an artist-curated, weighted desaturation. Both files should be print-ready, high-res (300ppi@8x10"), but small enough to be sent via email. Please upload the two files you would send, formatted and appropriately labeled to this week’s homework folder. This bonus is with 2 points!!!

DROPBOX LINK: Dropbox

Great question once put forward: Philippe asked, “Does it really make any difference if you save something at 5x7 inches @72ppi or 1.68 x 1.207 300ppi as they would seem to be the same?

In most cases, these files could be considered synonymous (if @72ppihe pixels are exactly the same) in that if you open the two images on screen, you will see absolutely no difference between them. However, there is a difference if you try to drag and drop them into a word processor.

For example, here are two copies of my painting Paradise. One is saved at 5x7" @ 72ppi, while the other is 1.68x1.207" @ 300ppi. Either way, the pixel dimensions on both are 362x504. They are so alike that even this program discourse kept displaying the same image.

This is how they appear, though, when dragged into a Word doc:

As you can see, one becomes much smaller than the other. The issue is how some software treats the measurements. (Page-setting software like InDesign does the same thing.) In both cases, the target environment measures things in real-world units (centimeters or inches), so it uses the dpi metadata to decide how to convert your image’s pixel dimensions to real-world dimensions. For example, a 600x600-pixel image at 300 dpi will appear on the page at 2x2 inches.

By contrast, most screen-based environments (Photoshop, the web, etc.) measure things in pixels, so no conversion is needed: each pixel in your image simply occupies one pixel of your screen.

So, if you’re preparing an image for print on paper or other physical media and you’re asked for a specific dpi (which will usually be 300), you should stick to it to ease the workflow at the print end. (Of course, a page designer can always convert your 72dpi image to 300dpi without losing anything, but why make things difficult?) Note that this only ever applies if your image is going to be placed on a page (for example, in a magazine or book), which is why it so rarely makes a difference. If you’re just printing photos full-page (either on your own printer or sending them off for photographic prints), the dpi will make no difference.


Herb asked, “Is RGB in Photoshop the same or equivalent to sRGB.?”

Honestly, at first I thought it would likely be the same thing, but it turns out that Photoshop’s RGB Color Mode isn’t a single fixed color space—it requires a profile, like sRGB or Adobe RGB. Adobe also developed their own wide-gamut profile, known as Adobe RGB.

While both Adobe RGB and sRGB have advantages and drawbacks, Adobe RGB provides more flexibility for editing and switching profiles because it covers a wider range of colors (a larger gamut). A photograph taken in Adobe RGB mode can be safely converted to sRGB. By contrast, sRGB images cannot be expanded into Adobe RGB because those extra colors were never captured in the first place.

Key point for artists: Photoshop’s “RGB” mode does not automatically mean sRGB—it depends on your chosen working color profile (sRGB, Adobe RGB, or even ProPhoto). If you don’t set one, Photoshop often defaults to sRGB, which is safest for web use.

You can learn more about the differences here:

https://www.viewsonic.com/library/creative-work/srgb-vs-adobe-rgb-which-one-to-use/


Some software mentions:

REMINDER: There is NO class on Thursday Oct. 9th. Class will resume on Thursday, October, 16th. 2pm EST.

Here you will find all of the information (appropriate links (including Dropbox folder links for homework), notes, reminders, etc.) for Photoshop 101 (Photoshop Basics for Artists) Week Three. (again, being held Oct. 16th.)

HOMEWORK RESULTS FROM WEEK 2 (total 6 points w/bonuses):

GK: 3.5
HB: 3.5
JL: 6
KT: 4
KB: 4
LM: 5
MS: 2.5

NOTE: Please respect the work, rights, and privacy of participating artists. You may view the uploaded homework efforts from the class within the Dropbox folder, but you may not download or manipulate their work in any way. Anya and I will be downloading uploaded homework or classwork images when needed/appropriate, but we will never share anyone’s images outside of the class without express permission from the author. All files in the Dropbox folders will be deleted at the end of the course. Additionally, please note that classes will not be recorded to respect each participant’s learning experience.

If there are files required for the week’s homework, then they will be available in a folder called “WeekX_Resources” in the appropriate week’s folder. You will need to download the files in this folder to complete the week’s homework. However, please be sure not to remove or add anything to this folder.

Today we will discuss Photoshop layers!

Photoshop layers are like sheets of stacked transparent acetate. You can see through transparent areas of a layer to the layers below. You move a layer to position the content on the layer, like sliding a sheet of acetate in a stack. You can also change the opacity of a layer to make content partially transparent.

Transparent areas on a layer allow you to see the layers below.

You use layers to perform tasks such as compositing multiple images, adding text to an image, or adding vector graphic shapes. You can apply a layer style to add a special effect, such as a drop shadow or a glow.

A new image has a single layer. The number of additional layers, layer effects, and layer sets you can add to an image is limited only by your computer’s memory (although there are reports of Photoshop enforcing a practical upper limit (~8,000 layers)).

You work with layers in the Layers panel. Layer groups help you organize and manage layers. You can use groups to arrange your layers in a logical order and to reduce clutter in the Layers panel. You can nest groups within other groups. You can also use groups to apply attributes and masks to multiple layers simultaneously.

Sometimes layers don’t contain any apparent content. For example, an adjustment layer holds color or tonal adjustments that affect the layers below it. Rather than edit image pixels directly, you can edit an adjustment layer and leave the underlying pixels unchanged.

Photoshop Layers panel overview

The Layers panel in Photoshop lists all layers, layer groups, and layer effects in an image. You can use the Layers panel to show and hide layers, create new layers, and work with groups of layers. You can access additional commands and options in the Layers panel menu.

  • Marquee tool is the basic selection tool that can select your Photoshop layer in several shapes, like rectangle, ellipse, single-pixel vertical and horizontal line, square, and circle etc. By default, the marquee tool makes the rectangular selection. But you can change to another variant of the marquee tool according to your needs.

To learn more about this tool:

https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/using/selecting-marquee-tools.html

In Adobe Photoshop, learn how to make selections with the marquee tools.

  • Move Tool
    The Move tool helps you position selected content or layers when customizing your work.
    Just as the name says, the Move Tool moves things around your canvas. Whether that be layers, text, or selections, this tool has you covered. It can also be used to align layers to your canvas or an active selection.

https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/using/tool-techniques/move-tool.html

The Move tool helps you position selected content or layers when customizing your work.

– What Can The Move Tool Move?

Entire Layers: Whether it be smart objects or a regular layer, the Move Tool can select and reposition an entire layer at once.

Text Layers: The Move Tool allows you to reposition any text layer by simply clicking and dragging the text to a new position.

Selections: Any selection can be repositioned using the Move Tool, but the selected layer behind the selection will also move with it.

  • Cut/Copy/Paste/etc
    You can use the Move tool to copy selections as you drag them within or between images, or you can copy and move selections using the Copy, Copy Merged, Cut, and Paste commands. Dragging with the Move tool saves memory because you don’t use the clipboard.

When you paste a selection or layer between images with different resolutions, the pasted data retains its pixel dimensions. This can make the pasted portion appear out of proportion to the new image. Use the Image Size command to make the source and destination images the same resolution before copying and pasting, or use the Free Transform command to resize the pasted content.

Understanding the Copy and Paste commands

  • Copy (Ctrl-C)
    Copies the selected area on the active layer.
  • Cut (Ctrl-X)
    Removes the selected area on the active layer and adds it to the clipboard.
  • Copy Merged
    Makes a merged copy of all the visible layers in the selected area.
  • Paste (Ctrl-V)
    Pastes a copied selection into another part of the image or into another image as a new layer. If you have a selection, the Paste command places the copied selection over the current selection. Without an active selection, Paste places the copied selection in the middle of the view area.

Additional tools from today:

  • Eraser Tool
    The Eraser tool changes pixels to either the background color or to transparent. If you’re working on a background or in a layer with transparency locked, the pixels change to the background color; otherwise, the pixels are erased to transparency.
  • Transform controls
    The Transform feature enables users to modify their object or selection in various ways, including scaling, rotating, distorting, or flipping (mirroring). To use the Transform feature, select a layer or create a new selections. Go to Edit in the menu, select Transform, and select the type of transformation you wish to make. (Ctrl-T.)

Special Mention: Gaussian Blur

What is Gaussian blurring?

Named after mathematician Carl Friedrich Gauss (rhymes with “grouse”), Gaussian (“gow-see-an”) blur is the application of a mathematical function to an image in order to blur it. “It’s like laying a translucent material like vellum on top of the image,” says photographer Kenton Waltz. “It softens everything out.” A type of low-pass filter, the Gaussian blur smoothes uneven pixel values in an image by eliminating extreme outliers.

For more information on this filter:

Learn when to use Gaussian blur filters during image processing, and gain a better understanding of how they work in this learning guide.

Homework: 2 options: Please complete at least one of the following: 2 points.

1. Using the supplied hot-air balloon “for-use” image, please add an additional balloon. You must use only the digital materials available within the image. Figuring out how to change the color is up to you! (We cover that next week.) You need only submit the edited version as a JPEG, which should be the same image size as the original (but not necessarily the same file size, as you are changing information.)

2. Using a “high-res” landscape image—please add at least two elements that might further promote the perception of depth in the picture. The resulting image should be no smaller than 200ppi @5x7”. Please submit the original landscape image along with the edited version to complete this challenge.

Bonus Scenario (2 points): With a show coming up on you quickly, you realize that you do not have much time for experimentation and/or exploration within your latest work in progress. However, you begin to think that the work might be significantly improved if a certain element were added. You know that if you don’t like it, the removal and “restoration” involved to get back on track will cost valuable painting hours. Luckily, you remember your Photoshop prowess and realize that you can take an image of the work in its current state and “Photoshop” the element in there to see how it looks. Therefore, you need to create a variant of one of your own work images. Keep in mind that this exercise focuses on the impact on composition and spatial relationships. Stylistic appearance, consistent lighting, edgework, etc, will not be taken into account when grading this bonus challenge. Please include both the before and after image at no less than 200ppi @5x7”.

Completing all three challenges can earn you 6 points for this week! Good luck! (NOTE: please make sure to have all homework for Week Three in by Wednesday, Oct. 22nd, to avoid any point penalties or grading delays!)

DROPBOX for this week: Dropbox